The Dhangars are always on the move and, twice a year, they make a 500km long migration across central India. This is the story of their journey
A country decides what to give its people and what to take from them; what to make and sell, what to buy and distribute. In making these decisions, it arrives at a definition of development. The path has weight, for it forges the character of its citizens, leaving them with hope, or fear, or an upheaval felt for generations. The Noble Mansion will chronicle this development through the lived experiences of businessmen and bureaucrats, and villagers and city dwellers across India as it renews itself.
All the drinking water in the world will fit in a cube that can sit over the city of Bangalore. And in this industrial age, everyone wants a share of aquifers, rivers, lakes, and wetlands. Voices get shriller and stakes rise ever higher should a river cross international boundaries. Add to all this, the unpredictability of weather patterns in the age of climate change.
On the freshwater trail, I will follow the changing fortunes of people and species in the anthropocene era
For rural India, sharing space with wildlife is second nature. But as development gets fast-tracked, the delicate, value-based balance of man and nature is tilting; coexistence is giving way to conflict. This year-long project explores the complex inter-relationships between Man and Nature.
Dhangars are nomadic migratory shepherds spread across the dry habitats of peninsular India. Constantly on the move, they travel with thousands of sheep and share the landscape with other wildlife

Incredible, incredible stuff. I particularly marveled at how beautifully your lens flits between the Dhangars and you. I am particularly fascinated by narratives where the reader looks through the narrator’s lens for the most part but has to crane his neck to look at the narrator himself for richer context.
What a life-changing experience this must have been. Thank you for writing this.
This was one of the more evocative pieces I’ve read in a while. Beautifully written, observed and pictured. Reading it on my phone over breakfast in the office canteen, I couldn’t stop till the very end.
This is dramatic and yet so natural. Lot of leaning and listening within the episodes that seems so natural yet filled with the drama of a corporate leader. Wow.
Such a wonderful journey. Almost felt like I was there with you walking with the Dhangars. Looking forward to more pieces from you.
kalyan, your writing and photographs are so evocative and when I look at each of the photographs, I can feel for the plight of the Dhangars. I hope this will help in some way or the other. Do do think they will be doing this few years down the line?
A great Post Kalyan, explains in detail how important it is to live in tune with Nature. Urbanization is sure taking a toll on the natural water sources and ultimately affecting even those who are not part of the cities.
Kalyan, you star! Loved the style. Takes one through the travails (and travels?) of the Dhangars and weaves the reader into the story as a witness. Excellent narrative – this is the stuff!
Boss, as a fellow-journalist, I am hugely impressed by your work, and your insightful writing. Kudos, and more power to your camera and pen!
I am humbled to read about Dhangar tribe. Thanks for writing this piece.
A nice write-up that opened a window to an unknown world! Thanks for the post!
[…] Life on the Move by Kalyan Varma. The Dhangars, the last of India’s truly nomadic tribes, are always on the move and, twice a year, they, with their flocks of sheep, make a 500 km long migration across central India. This is the story of their journey. (checked on 6 Apr. 2022) […]