People of the Thar desert who live with the cycle of seasons find ways of feeding thousands of people without irrigation. This story unfolds over a year and recounts history through contemporary lives lived gently
All the drinking water in the world will fit in a cube that can sit over the city of Bangalore. And in this industrial age, everyone wants a share of aquifers, rivers, lakes, and wetlands. Voices get shriller and stakes rise ever higher should a river cross international boundaries. Add to all this, the unpredictability of weather patterns in the age of climate change.
On the freshwater trail, I will follow the changing fortunes of people and species in the anthropocene era
The Indian government calls 68% of the Thar a "wasteland," and plans to "better utilize" it. Actions born of this new lexicon threaten to destroy livelihoods and an ecosystem at a time when monsoons are unpredictable
Where could I find the desert minstrels who sing a "chhand," a poem, of a fabled people long gone from the Jaisalmer area? Rumor had it that there were only very few minstrels who recited the poem anymore
Traditional desert dwellers, semi-nomadic shepherds, call upon ancient wisdom to survive in the deep Thar desert of Rajasthan. This is a story about people who remember where the wells live
The deep Thar desert sees only forty cloudy days. Yet, the shepherds have as many different names for clouds. Does the essence of thriving in this hostile clime begin with an evocative lexis of the land?
When we lose an evocative lexicon of the land, when we forget, we lose what Barry Lopez calls the “voice of memory over the land.” This is an attempt to keep that lexicon alive

A wonderful read. I spent many years in Rajasthan, around Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Barmer and many other smaller places as well. The climate around the driest parts of the desert, i.e. Jaisalmer has changed for the worse. Unimaginably, the weather has become sultry for a major part of the year except the winter. There are now perennial lakes around Jaisalmer. Floods have become a part of life in Jaisalmer and Barmer districts. The soil in most places has been rendered unfit due to the presence of salts brought upwards by the sudden availability of water from the IG canal.
I have not visited Rajasthan for some years now. Nevertheless, in their complex interactions with other ecosystems, deserts have a role to play. Overtly greening them may not help. The wisdom of the ancients, like the Paliwals is best followed even today.
Thanks so much for your comment — it is great to hear from someone familiar with the place and one who understands the issues. I will be heading back there soon to continue storytelling. Also, thanks so much for the kind feedback you have left on the Peepli page. Hope you will come along on the journey with us at Peepli.
Best,
Arati
It’s a working Monday morning, but your story telling did what great story telling does. It made me stop whatever I was doing, transported me in to another world and made me read, right up to the end. Thank you. Learnt many things new today and that was inspirational.
kuldhara gav hamare purjvo ki thati hai. hame garva hai ki humne is samaj me janm liya hai. jaisilmer ke pas base 84 villege me se kuldhara sabse bada villege tha. Aj bhi hamare samaj ki san ko banaye hua hai. jyada jankari ke liye ap sampark mere mail per kar sakate hai. me abhi jaisalmer me rahata hoo. mujhe khusi hogi rishi paliwal-9414391041
Excellent piece of work and information. Recently, I visited Thar, Sindh. While reading your articles, it seems both sides of Tharee have common issues and following. It seems Indian side of Thar is more futile, developed and looked after then Sindh side. Very impressive work by Ms. Rao.